Six Cities in Nine Days

     In the Reutlingen study abroad program, one of the courses is all about Martin Luther and Johann Sebastian Bach. It's an interesting mix of history and theology, and as part of it, we all take a five day tour of Luther and Bach Land. That's Leipzig, Wittenberg, Eisenach, and Erfurt. Following that, we have five days for free travel, just like after the Berlin trip. This time around, we chose to go to Munich and Salzburg. So many cities, so little time! We did so much this week, it's impossible to talk about it all, so I'll pick one or two highlights per day.

Saturday:
     We actually arrived in Leipzig late on Friday, but Saturday was our first real opportunity to explore the city. While both Luther and Bach spent significant time in Leipzig, the guided portion of our day was more about Bach, who's still clearly a local celebrity:

For a different kind of musical experience, that night, I found myself somewhere I never thought I would be: An opera house. By some miracle, we were able to buy very cheap, good seats for that night's performance of Der Rosenkavalier. I wish I could be one of those truly sophisticated people who knows how to appreciate opera, but I'm still working on it. However, even though I didn't know what was going on most of the time, the music was really beautiful, and I do recommend that everyone go to the opera at least once, at least just to say you did it.

Sunday:
     On Sunday, we took a day trip to Wittenberg. Here, Martin Luther nailed the 95 thesis on the door of the Castle Church almost 500 years ago. Unfortunately, the church is currently undergoing a major renovation in preparation for the anniversary. I do think that the Lutherans in our group got more out of the day, but it was still very interesting to see where such pivotal events took place.

Monday:
    On Monday, we moved on to Eisenach, the birthplace of Bach and the location of the Wartburg castle, where Luther translated the Bible into German. For the history, as well as the wonderful views, the castle was my highlight.

That evening, we continued to Erfurt. Okay, my other, smaller highlights of the day were the charmingly eccentric Opera Hostel we stayed in in Erfurt and the surprisingly good steakhouse named "Texas" next door. I didn't realize how much I missed American food.

Tuesday:
     After a tour of Luther's cloister, we had the rest of the day free to explore this city that pleasantly surprised me. At the beginning of the week, I really didn't know what to expect of the former East Germany, but I was pleasantly surprised by all four cities, especially Erfurt. Because it's a well-preserved, medieval town, it reminded me of why I fell in love with Germany. After exploring and enjoying the views from the Petersburg Citadel for a few hours, I spent the next two just sitting in an Eiscafé talking to a friend. It was the first real break I had all week, and while it may sound less than thrilling, it was probably my favorite day of the trip.

Wednesday:
     To my surprise, I found out that the 10-day rail pass provided by the program is also valid on trains to Salzburg, Austria. Even though I've already been to Austria, I had to jump at the first chance I had to go to another country. Most of the day was spent on the train, but once we got to our hostel in Salzburg, one of our roommates invited us out with some of the other people staying there. Now, I'm not sure yet, what I think of the hostel experience. One the one hand, I had a fabulous, authentic Austrian meal at a table of people from 8 different countries, and that's an amazing experience. On the other hand, I don't know how comfortable I am wandering around at night in a foreign county with a bunch of strangers. Plus, it's really hard to sleep in a room of 8 people snoring, coughing, and sniffling. So the jury's still out on that one…

Thursday:
     On Thursday, we saw the whole city, but the clear highlight was taking a cable car up to the top of the world. Yes, little old me, who's afraid of heights , stood on top of a mountain. Like a real one... with snow and everything!

Friday:
     I've been to Munich before, but I really did enjoy going again. We started the day with a free walking tour, which I highly recommend. It's a great way to see the highlights if you don't have a ton of time or money, and I know that many cities offer them. That night, I did the one thing I regretted not doing the last time I was in town. I went to the famous/infamous Hofbräuhaus. Honestly, I didn't have terribly high expectations of the place because it is a known tourist trap, but still, it's one of those things you just have to do at least once…like the opera. Anyway, the food was just okay, the beer was beer, and the Apfelstrudel was incredible. (Of course the dessert would be the highlight for me.) But the real reason why you go to the Hofbräuhaus is for the atmosphere. Surprisingly, there were actual Germans there, and we did share a table with them, and we did sing silly German songs. It was delightfully stereotypical!
     It was a long week, and I'm glad to be home, but so grateful to have had all of these experiences. Sure, it's hard sometimes, but this whole study abroad thing, this is the life!